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Beautifully written, this thoughful and though provoking book captures the pleasures of surfing, and covers just enough of the history and culture of the sport to whet your appetitie without trying to turn you into a social historian. The Austrialian author is obviously bent out of shape by Austalia's domestic immigration policy, but even her political hand-wringing is thought provoking, even though it loses a lot of its relevance for UK readers. I've just read my copy in two days and would happily recommend it to any surfer (or anyone with a love of the sea) looking for a good read....
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